Lochalsh - Knoydart - Lochaber

Deep Sea Lochs - this evocative and collective name includes lochs from Kyle to Ardnamurchan, approximately 40 nautical miles in a ( fairly ) straight line. It goes roughly from Loch Alsh in the north via the Sound of Sleat to Loch Moidart in the south.

We have found enormous pleasure and enjoyment in exploring these wonderful lochs. They usually provide calm conditions, some of our best wildlife sightings and they each have a different character. They provide plenty of 'wild and remote' for those who are seeking that...

Loch Alsh

Loch Alsh, more usually spelt Lochalsh is sometimes 'home' to Red Moon in summer. The town of Kyle provides good communication links, the main services one requires such as Drs, Dentist Post Office and a variety shop and eating places. We get our fish and shellfish from Kyle via the local fish deli Buth Bheag / Fishermans Kitchen and some of our meat through the local butcher. Delicious local bread is sourced from The Fairytale Kitchen in nearby Ardelve.

Kyle used to be the stopping off point for ferries to Skye and is still important as the end of the mainland before you cross the sea to Skye by the iconic Skye Bridge. The scenic Kyle Line railway terminates there and there is a small museum and shop on the station platform dedicated to the Line.

lochalsh.co.uk

Loch Duich

Heading south through Loch Alsh, often a place for spotting dolphins and porpoises and certainly seals, we have a choice to go through Kylerhea to the Sound of Sleat or to continue eastwards and into Loch Duich. As we round a bend before reaching Duich the fabulous sight of Eilean Donan Castle comes into view. A very popular tourist destination, we often anchor close by for lunch and a photo opportunity; certainly a full visit can also be made during a cruise but you need a good few hours to do it justice. Nearby, the village of Dornie makes a nice side trip with a walk by the side of Loch Long, a visit to the Schoolhouse Art gallery or drink at the Dornie Inn or Hotel.

We love to cruise all the way down the loch and either anchor there or further west at Letterfearn, where there is a nice easy walk along the lochside to view the remnants of an Iron Age Broch. We have spotted otters on this walk, both in the loch and on the road! At the head of the loch we usually anchor near Rattigan – in part because we have found this to be a sheltered and quiet spot but also so we can go ashore to visit Glenshiel Chocolates!

aroundtheloch.co.uk

Kylerhea

Not a loch but a body of water requiring its own mention. It is very tidal and so we must obey its movements and chose carefully when to head north or south through it. It is home to Kylerhea Otter Hide and the Glenelg ferry, which is the last remaining operating 'turntable' ferry in the world.

The first is built on the hill just above the waters edge and its name gives its purpose away. We have seen otters in Kylerhea, but very few in that vicinity – but then we don't sit still! Seals make their appearance all the way along, depending on the state of the tide and we have had some fantastic eagle sightings. Just before we exit the Kylerhea we often encounter the Glenelg ferry with its attendent collie dog deckhands! 

At the southern end of Kylerhea where water changes from the shallower, narrower kyle to the deeper wider Sound of Sleat there is an outfall which can produce the most amazing eddies or sometimes, very confused wave action.

isleofskye.com

Loch Hourn

The two sea lochs on the mainland coast of the Sound of Sleat are known in Gaelic as ( approximately) 'heaven' and 'hell'. Loch Hourn, unfortunately, got the latter moniker but we feel this is very unjustified as this very dramatic and awesome loch is just a fantastic place to explore.

It is definitely one of our top wildlife spots and we love the way it keeps 'opening up' as you progress through the loch until you reach its 'pool' at the top. We can only get into the pool at high water and have enjoyed some especially 'reflective' nights there...

The colours of the water and surrounding hills and rocks can be simply sublime, with great shadow play and reflections. A really photogenic location. Lochside walks are possible and there is one village, Armisdale but mainly it is a place of wilderness – indeed it borders the Knoydart Peninsula which has been called “Britain's last wilderness”.

Red Moon was the mother ship for a film crew making an award winning film about wild swimming – all filmed in Loch Hourn! You can view the video at this link: https://vimeo.com/292071219

visitknoydart.co.uk

Loch Nevis

On the south side of the Knoydart Peninsula is Loch Nevis – perhaps its know as 'heaven' because it is home to the Old Forge pub which is the most remote pub on the British mainland!

We often drop guests for a quick visit there and indeed there is also a local cafe and craft shop too. We usually anchor closer to the entrance to the loch, out of any possible westerly swell and because we have discovered a promising otter and seal spotting place...

Like Hourn, Nevis winds itself between steep sided hills and can be quite 'other wordly' – especially with the strange 'whaleboat' stranded ashore...take that very literally! We often enjoy a lunch stop in Tarbert Bay from which a walk to the freshwater Loch of Morar is possible. 

visitknoydart.co.uk

Arisaig

Not strictly a loch, but a picturesque harbour, with a very winding entrance channel, on the Lochaber coast which we enjoy navigating down...

Great facilities and some walks ashore and a really lovely anchorage with fantastic sunset views back to the Small Isles. We have visited the Land, Sea and Isalnds centre ashore and it has displays and information about local crofting, fishing, chucrh history, marine life, nature and archealogy and is well worth a visit. The accompanying shop sells nice local craft items and produce.

road-to-the-isles.org.uk/en/arisaig/

Loch Ailort

Interesting entrances, particularly from a navigational point of view, are a feature of the Lochaber coast sea lochs and Ailort is no exception. There are a series of islets to negociate before the loch opens up to provide a number of nice anchorages. Expect rock scrambling and white sandy beaches..

road-to-the-isles.org.uk/en/lochailort/

Loch Moidart

A gem of a place! Discovered by Red Moon at the start of our 2018 season, we fell in love with its 'Swallows & Amazons' feel and the rather picture perfect Castle Tioram. After another winding entrance we are tucked away in a beautiful anchorage with lovely coastal paths and the area around Castle to explore..

moidart.com